Mount Davis

Higher is not always better. I’ve been to several peaks recently that are only modest in elevation but contain outstanding views. It many ways, being surrounded by impressive peaks of equal or greater height provides a more dramatic perspective. Mount Davis is one of these peaks. While relatively remote and obscure, the views are breathtaking and include taller and well known neighbors to the north (Mount Lyell and Rodgers Peak) and south (Mount Ritter and Banner Peak). To the west is the rugged and wild headwaters of the North Fork San Joaquin River, including the enchanting Twin Island Lakes, and to the east is spectacular Thousand Island Lake and the Davis Lakes. On my way to Mount Davis I visited the always-beautiful Garnet Lake and Thousand Island Lake, making sure to time my passage with idyllic morning light. While the shortest route to Mount Davis is via Silver Lake trailhead, I prefer the route from the Agnew Meadows trailhead which is more scenic in my opinion. This route also enabled me to easily include a morning visit to Garnet Lake, one of the prettiest lakes in all of the Sierra.  GPS route here.I continued up from Thousand Island Lake to North Glacier Pass, a route that seems more efficient each time I get the chance to visit the pass. The pass is a worthy destination in itself with a commanding view of the deep blue Lake Catherine situated below the rugged north faces of Mount Ritter and Banner Peak. The view includes the glacial remnant that flows between these two impressive peaks. From North Glacier Pass, it seems as if Davis would be close, but quite a bit of leg work remains. One can either descend to the rocky shores of Lake Catherine or traverse higher up to avoid losing elevation. Both require some travel through cumbersome talus, but the beautiful clear waters of Lake Catherine are a great distraction.Higher up above Lake Catherine the terrain transitions to friendly granite slabs that lead to the “Davis Plateau,” a broad area of high elevation between North Glacier Pass to the south and the summit of Mount Davis at the north end of the plateau. While the summit of Davis has some prominence, there are numerous ridgelines and points along the plateau that are not that much lower in height. In this regard, Davis is more of a massif.  In order to reach the high point, which includes the best views looking north along the crest toward Mount Lyell, an expansive glacial bowl must be crossed with copious talus and some interesting ice remnants (sadly it’s doubtful this ice makes it through this exceptionally dry and warm year). After crossing the bowl, the summit of Davis is an easy talus hop. On the way back I made a slight diversion to a small point at the south end of the Davis plateau that features an amazing view overlooking the deep blue waters of Lake Catherine and the multi-colored Ritter Lakes, nestled underneath the rugged buttresses of Mount Ritter with colors ranging from deep blue to turquoise. I have probably spent more time in the Ansel Adams Wilderness region exploring the area around the Minarets and Ritter/Banner than anywhere else in the High Sierra but the scenery never ceases to amaze and inspire. GPS route here.

The Roof of Yosemite Loop

The Roof of Yosemite Loop travels to the highest point in Yosemite National Park on 13,114 ft Mount Lyell and also includes ascents of 12,900 ft Mount Maclure (5th highest in the park) and 12,561 ft Mount Florence (9th highest in the park). Moreover, Lyell, Maclure and Florence are the three highest named summits in the incredibly scenic Cathedral Range, a spur of the Sierra crest that runs from Tuolumne Meadows to Mount Lyell. The region around Mount Lyell is definitely the most alpine in Yosemite and arguably the most rugged as well. The western side of Lyell and Maclure are particularly rugged and remote with no trail access into Hutchings Creek basin or the Lyell Fork of the Merced River. Nestled between Lyell and Maclure is one of the largest remaining permanent snowfields in the Sierra Nevada. Sadly, this formerly proud glacier was declared no longer active last year.  A glacier requires movement of the underlying ice over a slope, but Lyell Glacier’s rapid retreat and mass melting over the last several decades has taken a toll and the ice has now stopped moving altogether. A snow capped Lyell is an iconic view from the southern end of Lyell Canyon, and while snow remains on Lyell year-around to this day, it is sobering to think that Mount Lyell could be devoid of all permanent snow in as little as 25 years according to scientists. The effects of global warming, and especially the rapid warming of California, are plainly visible in the high Sierra. 

The Roof of Yosemite Loop combines many of the highlights of this region into an aesthetic and highly scenic loop. The route starts with a pleasant trip up one of the easiest stretches of trail in the Sierra in lovely Lyell Canyon next to meadows and the meandering Lyell Fork of the Tuolumne River. After an ascent out of Lyell Canyon, a picturesque alpine lake is reached below Donohue Pass. From here, there are a couple ways to reach the Lyell Glacier, but I’ve found the most scenic is to leave the John Muir Trail before it switchbacks to begin the final push to Donohue Pass and ascend west up meadows to an alpine lake with a stellar view of Mount Lyell. From the lake, some talus and low angle granite slabs lead up the northeast ridge of Mount Maclure to some glacial lakes and the snowfield of Lyell “Glacier”. Cross the glacier heading for the northwest ridge and ascend the class 3/4 ridge; the hardest moves are near the bottom and then the angle lessens for the final couple hundred feet of vertical to the summit.  Retrace steps to the pass between Lyell and Maclure and ascend Mount Maclure’s SW slope which is mostly class 2. Both Maclure and Lyell provide amazing views of the surrounding region, including the Ritter Range, Cathedral Range, Clark Range, Sierra Crest and Yosemite Valley. From Mount Maclure descend the class 3 southwest chute to the upper reaches of Hutchings Creek basin. The basin is divided into two lobes by Peak 12,358, but the southern lobe is far more scenic with the great cliffs of Mount Lyell’s western face, Mount Maclure and the granitic north side of Peak 12,767 towering above. These peaks provide an awesome backdrop from the many alpine tarns and lakes in the remote basin.

Annotated view from Mount Florence (large version here):

View north from Mount Lyell (large version here):

Off-Trail Portion Close-up:

Lyell Glacier and Lyell Canyon from Mount Maclure (large version here):

From Hutchings Creek Basin, traverse to the south ridge of Mount Florence, gaining the ridge most easily at the broad saddle between point 11,647 and Mount Florence. The ascent of Mount Florence is straightforward class 2 on large talus blocks which can be a bit cumbersome at times. Mount Florence has one of the best views in Yosemite with an amazing panorama including most of Yosemite National Park.  From Mount Florence descend talus and sand down the west ridge and then more cumbersome talus down to Lake 10,541 ft, a classic Sierra gem. The north face of Mount Florence towers above this beautiful lake with striking blue waters.  From Lake 10,541 head north and northwest traversing easy off-trail terrain before descending into the Lewis Creek drainage to meet up with the Lewis Creek Trail at ~9,600 ft. Take the trail to Vogelsang Pass, Vogelsang Lake and the Vogelsang High Sierra Camp. Complete the loop by going to Tuolumne Pass and taking the Rafferty Creek Trail back to Lyell Canyon.        

 

Foerster Peak

Fall is one of my favorite times of the year in the Sierra. This time of year comes after the summer monsoon thunderstorm season but before winter storms roll in off the Pacific burying the high country in snow. The result is weather that is characterized by numerous clear and crisp days interspersed with the occasional light snowfall.  Mosquitoes and crowds are non-existent, and the trails are in great condition.  Foerster Peak hadn’t really been on my radar, or the entire region for that matter, but while looking at the maps midweek it looked like a nice objective and I’m always interested in visiting new spots off the beaten path. Joey joined me for this trip and we both agreed this adventure far exceeded expectations entailing a beautiful off-trail approach through Long Creek to Rockbound Lake and the exquisite Blue Lake, and a stellar 360 degree summit panorama including the entire Clark Range and much of the Cathedral Range and Ritter Range. My favorite view was the rarely seen west side of the jagged Minarets. Strava route here.

A sweeping 360 degree annotated panorama from the summit of Foerster Peak can be found here or be clicking on the image below for a much larger image. 

Clark Range Panorama (click image for larger version): 

We started the trip from Isberg Pass Trailhead after a long, bumpy ride on the Beasore Rd. While this route is shorter, the pavement on Beasore road is so badly eroded it’s actually worse than if the road had been all gravel.  We parked about 0.6 miles from the trailhead to avoid a rocky section of road (the reality of driving low clearance cars). On the way back we took the Minaret Road which is substantially longer in distance, but a much better drive due to its smooth pavement. We followed the Isberg Pass Trail through the Niche and shortly thereafter broke off on the Chetwood Cabin Trail. The montane forest and meadows were so pleasant for running we passed the dilapidated Chetwood Cabin without even noticing it, which meant we also passed the location where we were supposed to turn off. On the way back we took the old use trail that we were supposed to take in the morning and came to the conclusion that trying to follow this path is essentially useless and our unintended off-trail route in the morning was more efficient. A couple years ago a major windstorm blew through the forest and toppled countless trees over the old trail. Combined with lack of use, the old path has grown very faint and difficult to follow.

Back to the morning, we discovered our “error” of overshooting Chetwood Cabin when we came to a second junction for Cora Lakes. Instead of backtracking we headed uphill cross country to a saddle on the east side of Sadler Peak. The cross country travel proved to be very efficient and straightforward and it turns out this is my recommended route versus the route we took in the afternoon. Thus, for the most direct route into Long Creek I would stay straight past the Niche heading to Cora Lakes and then head cross country from the second junction with the Chetwood Cabin trail.  Beyond the saddle on Sadler Peak’s east side, the use trail can be picked up again with numerous cairns and followed down to Long Creek where the trail ends for good. Travel up the granite canyon of Long Creek is a pleasure with a babbling stream, grassy meadows and clumps of trees amid a setting that is predominantly ice-polished granite. At the headwaters of Long Creek we turned east ascending slabs and grass over a ridge to spectacular Blue Lake with a perfect backdrop of Mount Ritter, Banner Peak and the Minarets. At Blue Lake, Foerster Peak is finally within striking distance. The final scramble starts with an ascent up a grassy ramp, followed by granite slabs, and finally some talus hoping to the summit.


The challenge of Foerster Peak is clearly its remote location and not the straightforward scramble. The reward for reaching the summit is a truly remarkable vista, which was enhanced for us by a perfect fall day. We could see virtually all of the headwaters of the Merced River and the top of Half Dome. Mount Lyell and Mount Maclure (the roof of Yosemite) stood tall across the Lyell Fork of the Merced River with a series of high alpine lakes visible in the granite basin.  Close at hand was the rugged west face of Ansel Adams Peak and the ridge crest to Electra Peak and Rodgers Peak.  To the south, the rugged Ritter Range dominated the skyline with impressive views of the west side of the Mount Ritter and Banner Peak massif and the intricate spires of the Minarets. Over our stay at the summit, we watched the light on the Ritter Range become increasingly better. After spending over 45 minutes on top, we retraced our steps to Blue Lake and stopped for a photography extravaganza along its blue shores… just great!

The final views of the day (before entering forest) were near Sadler Peak with excellent afternoon light on the Minarets and the North Fork San Joaquin River canyon. I look forward to climbing to the summit of Sadler and taking the 2 mile ridge to Long Peak in the future. This ridge is sure to have excellent views for its entire length. Enjoying this last view, we thought we were set for a fairly easy last 8 miles back to the trailhead, but we were wrong.  The old use path we were supposed to take in the morning from Chetwood Cabin proved extremely challenging to follow with copious downfall to navigate. In fairness, the Tom Harrison Map does not show this trail at all and we were relying too heavily on outdated USGS topo maps. This region has seen more foot traffic in the past.  In the end, we decided the unintended cross country route taken in the morning was now a more efficient, superior access route to Long Creek and Foerster Peak. After what seemed like a long time, we finally popped out into a meadow and saw the ruins of the Chetwood Cabin indicating we were back on familiar ground and maintained trail. From this point we made good time back the trailhead. Foerster peak and this remote region far exceeded expectations and I will definitely be back for further exploration!