Desolation Six Summits Loop

The Desolation Wilderness is the most rugged region near Lake Tahoe with the star attraction being Lake Aloha set amidst the granite slopes of the Crystal Range. Since it’s relatively accessible to Lake Tahoe, it is the most visited wilderness area in the United States per square foot. While there is no shortage of people on the trails on a busy summer weekend, I still found plenty of solitude in this granite playground during two visits to the Desolation this summer. In this first post I’ll cover the adventure run in July which entailed an aesthetic ridge route climbing the six highest summits in the Desolation Wilderness over 11h42m roundtrip out of the Mount Ralston Trailhead. The next post recaps a scenic and logical loop entirely on trails out of Bayview near gorgeous Emerald Bay done in late August. Complete photo album of the six summits loop here. When looking at the map, a logical route links up the highest points in the Crystal Range from Pyramid Peak to Mount Agassiz to Mount Price. Jacks Peak and Dicks Peak are separated by the relatively low Mosquito Pass but they are close in proximity to each other. After descending to Dicks Pass from Dicks Peak, one can traverse a high ridge to Mount Tallac making for an aesthetic high route linking the six highest points of the Desolation Wilderness that is virtually all off-trail. I parked the car at the Ralston Peak trailhead and ran down Highway 50 to the Rocky Canyon use path. This path is steep and gains altitude efficiently reaching the meadow below Pyramid Peak quickly. The path continues up the last few hundred feet below the summit where there is some large boulder hoping. After enjoying the view from Pyramid and continued down the north slope and traversed over to a small section of rock scrambling. Continuing along the ridge and ascended a couple minor high points and then found myself on the slopes below Mount Agassiz. Mount Agassiz has an interesting summit pinnacle perched above Lake Aloha. From Agassiz, Mount Price is only a few minutes away running along easy dirt slopes. The descent from Mount Price to Mosquito Pass entails some downclimbing to a notch and then a long stretch of walking along slabs. The views of Lake Aloha from here are stupendous, with colors ranging from a deep azure in the deeper portions to turquoise. Eventually down at Mosquito Pass I crossed right over and began the ascent up Jacks Peak. It is on this ascent that that I found the most stunning views of Lake Aloha and the Crystal Range. Moving higher up the slopes, the birds eye view of the Aloha region was magnificent.

Unfortunately, the character of the rock changes dramatically north and east of Mosquito Pass. Instead of solid granite, the rock becomes progressively more fractured and loose. This makes for more arduous travel, but eventually I made it to the summit of Jacks Peak. From Jacks, Dicks Peak looks like a massive rubble pile (which it basically is). Fortunately, it doesn’t take as long as it looks to traverse between the two peaks. From Dicks Peak it was surprisingly time consuming to reach Dicks Pass and the high ridge between Dicks Pass and Mount Tallac proved even more time consuming. While this ridge starts out easy, it quickly transitions to loose shale. This stretch is not without its rewards as there are great views of Lake Tahoe on one side and Gilmore Lake on the other. I finally connected with the Mount Tallac and continued up the final slopes to the summit. I hadn’t seen many people to this point, but the renowned summit of Tallac had dozens of hikers enjoying the spectacular vista of Lake Tahoe. From this point to the finish was entirely on trail including a beautiful run along the shores of Lake Aloha. However, on the climb towards Ralston Peak I became dehydrated with no water available (note: fill up water before departing Lake Aloha).  I was happy to crest the ridge and begin the long descent to the Ralston Peak parking area, reaching the trailhead 11h42m after setting out.

Along the Ralston Peak trail I was not far from the summit of Ralston Peak, which would make for a seven summit day, but at 9,200 feet it’s substantially than the six primary summits of this route in both elevation and stature. Thus, I left Ralston for the next time I do this loop. Moreover, route knowledge will definitely allow me to go substantially faster on on the other parts the next time I attempt this loop. One major difference would be descending from Dicks Pass to Gilmore Lake on the Tahoe Rim Trail and then climbing back up to Mount Tallac. While this would diminish the high ridge nature of the route, it would allow for substantial time savings and perhaps completion below 10 hours. It is worth noting that water is scarce on the route, particularly later in the season, so plan accordingly.

Complete photo album of the six summits loop here.

High Sierra Trail FKT

Last Sunday I ran the 72 mile High Sierra Trail from Whitney Portal to Crescent Meadow in 15h46m starting at 3:19 am and finishing at 7:05 pm, a new FKT (previous mark was 18h39m). It was a great experience in an immensely scenic region of the High Sierra. A special thanks goes to Joel Lanz who helped with the car shuttle and made the whole adventure possible. Complete photo album here.

The High Sierra Trail is a masterpiece of Sequoia National Park traveling from the iconic giant sequoias to the highest point in the lower 48, and passing through some of the most stunning scenery in the Sierra Nevada Mountains en route. The trail stretches 61 miles from Crescent Meadows to the summit of Mount Whitney. As a practical matter, the trail is 72 miles since it takes another 11 miles to reach the Whitney Portal trailhead from the summit. The High Sierra Trail shares the same trail as the John Muir Trail from Wallace Creek to the summit of Mount Whitney leading some to speculate that the High Sierra Trail ends at the Wallace Creek junction, but the summit plaque on Whitney and the High Sierra Trail sign at Crescent Meadows prove that the High Sierra Trail indeed ends at Whitney’s summit. While the trail is traditionally done from west to east, for adventure running, the preferred direction is east to west due to a net loss of around 1,600 feet, and more importantly, the biggest climb of the day up Mount Whitney (6,200ft+ elevation gain) is completed first thing on fresh legs.

I was lucky to snag two day use permits for the Whitney zone on Friday afternoon so on Saturday Joel and I drove down to Lone Pine and picked them up. In the afternoon we did a short hike to the Cottonwood Lakes (~11,000 ft) below Mount Langley for helpful (albeit brief) acclimatization. It was gorgeous up there and I look forward to returning to explore more of the lakes and summit Mt. Langley. Sunday I woke up at 2:35 a.m. and departed Whitney Portal at 3:19 a.m. I got into a decent rhythm working the switchbacks all the way to Trail Crest. I reached the summit at 6:20 a.m. just as the sun was rising and it was amazing to watch the peaks and cliffs illuminate in orange – Sierra light at its best.

After a few photos and congratulating a couple who had just become engaged, I descended the slopes back to the junction. Oddly, I felt the altitude much more on the descent to Crabtree meadow, but the spectacular scenery was a good distraction. Fortunately, on the stretch between Crabtree and Wallace Creek I was able dial into my nutrition and hydration plan so I started feeling better. I got into a nice rhythm descending into Kern Canyon and then running the 9.5 miles of awesome rolling single track down the canyon. I saw several bears in the canyon, including a mother bear and two cubs that literally jumped right in front of me. This caused momentary panic, especially when momma bear gave me a little grunt and stare, but I made some noise and she calmly directed her cubs up the hill away from the trail.

The steepest part of the route, and the crux in my opinion, is the long climb out of lower Kern Canyon to the Chagoopa Plateau below the Kaweah Range. All told, this climb entails nearly 4,500 ft of cumulative elevation gain and the first part is quite steep on a hot south facing slope. The black diamond ultra light z-poles were extremely helpful on this section and I soon found myself on the plateau with a pleasant breeze. Most of Chagoopa is uninteresting terrain with open forest and no views. It is only until one essentially reaches the top of the plateau does the Great Western Divide and Kaweahs come into view. The scenery becomes more impressive and inspiring on the descent into the Big Arroyo Valley.

Upper Big Arroyo is amazing with a wide open tundra setting in the valley juxtaposed with sharp granite cliffs and peaks in the background. I met Jim Castleberry on this stretch and he was kind enough to take the photo of me immediately below. After Jim’s trip, he sent me a message: “This past Sunday I was hiking on the High Sierra Trail and took your picture on the east side of Kaweah Gap. Because of the remote location, when I heard the sound of feet running on the gravel surface behind me, it was a true WTF? moment. I was too shocked at the time to give you proper encouragement. Hope the rest of your run went well. You seemed to be in good condition when I saw you.”

The panoramic views continue up to 10,700 ft Kaweah Gap, the top of the last major climb of the route. I soaked in the views from Kaweah Gap and then continued down familiar territory to stunning Precipice Lake and Hamilton Lakes. This section is also one of the most scenic in the entire High Sierra and I couldn’t resist making several stops to take photos. While taking over 100 photos certainly cost me some time, photography is a big part of my enjoyment both during and after the adventure run. I felt there was no need to run “head down” the whole way at this stage of the trail’s FKT evolution.

I heard that legendary rock climber Peter Croft was staying at Hamilton Lakes to scope out a new route on the Angel Wings, the biggest rock wall in Sequoia National Park. As I passed by his party’s campsite, they asked me where I was coming from and gave words of encouragement. I wish I got his autograph! While the last 16 miles of the route is not without some climbing, there is also a lot of runnable terrain. I felt decent and was able to run a good chunk of the way from Kaweah Gap covering the last 20 miles in about 3:45 minutes. This was my first run over 50 miles ever and all things considered I felt good at the finish. It was great to see Joel at Crescent Meadows and give the High Sierra Trail sign a hug! Complete photo album here.

Splits:

  • Whitney Portal 0:00:00  (3:19 a.m.)
  • Outpost Camp 0:53:06
  • Trail Crest 2:21:54
  • Whitney Summit 3:01:15
  • Depart Summit 3:06:23
  • Crabtree Meadow 4:45:58
  • Wallace Creek 5:36:57
  • Junction Meadow 6:18:50
  • Kern Hot Springs 7:33:08
  • Lower Kern Canyon 7:56:42
  • Junction in Arroyo 10:53:22
  • Kaweah Gap 11:45:53
  • Bearpaw Meadow 13:41:30
  • Crescent Meadows 15:46:22 (7:05 pm)

Nutrition:

Gear:

Complete photo album here.

Suiattle Crest 50 Mile 2012

I returned to repeat the Suiattle Crest 50 mile adventure run on August 20th. The original run was done on August 4, 2009 in 13h37m. Last week I completed it in 11h44m (1h53m faster). This complete loop, entailing six passes, covers most of the highlights in this region of the Glacier Peak Wilderness including a breathtaking view from Little Giant Pass, a tour through wild Napeequa Valley, 360 vistas from the High Pass area, verdant wildflower meadows, stunning Lyman Lakes, and Spider Gap. It’s quintessential North Cascades scenery – well worth a revisit after three years. With GPS, I found that total elevation gain is actually higher (near 14,000 ft), but distance is a couple miles short of 50 miles. The route/trails are in essentially the same condition as three years ago: Napeequa valley is still quite brushy (and wet in the morning) and the climb up to High Pass is nicely hidden in the brush (tip: the use path starts at the far end of the meadow near the cascading stream and it’s worth spending the time to find it since the slide alder is unsavory in this area. It’s sad to note the recession of the Lyman Glacier, which is essentially now a remnant ice patch. Despite relatively healthy snowpacks the last couple years, the glacier has continued to lose thickness appearing noticeably smaller than my visit in 2009 with the terminus even receding from the last glacial lake. It seems only a matter of time before the permanent ice vanishes entirely. The receding glaciers in the Cascades are clear signals of global warming. Splits, video and some photos below with the compete album here.

Location (Elevation): Time Elapsed / Split / Real Time (difference 2012 vs. 2009)
Little Giant TH (2,600 ft) : 0 / 0 / 06:40
Little Giant Pass (6,409 ft) : 1:18:36 / 1:18:36 / 07:59 (-17)
High Pass (6,876 ft) : 4:30:18 / 3:11:41 / 11:10 (-1:05)
Buck Creek Pass (5,796 ft) : 5:39:01 / 1:08:46 / 12:19 (-1:04)
Cloudy Pass (6,420 ft) : 8:10:20 / 2:31:19 / 14:50 (-1:08)
Spider Gap (7,040 ft) : 9:32:11 / 1:21:50 / 16:12 (-1:28)
Phelps Creek TH (3,500 ft) : 11:01:50 / 1:29:38 / 17:42 (-1:41)
Little Giant TH (2,600 ft) : 11:44:19 / 42:29 / 18:24 (-1:53)

Gear:

  • La Sportiva C-Lite 2.0
  • First Endurance EFS Fruit Punch Drink Mix
  • Injinji Midweight Performance Toesocks
  • Ultimate Direction Wasp Pack
  • Rudy Project sunglasses
  • Black Diamond Z-Poles


Ptarmigan Traverse FKT 2012

Uli Steidl and I completed the Ptarmigan Traverse in 12h17m a new FKT. It has been three years since I last enjoyed the Ptarmigan Traverse so it was time to come back to see some of the most beautiful scenery in the Cascades and refresh the prior FKT, which was set by Colin Abercrombie and me on July 28, 2009 (14h36m). This time I was joined by distance running legend Uli Steidl who has innumerable running victories and accolades to his name from road marathons to mountain running to ultras. Conditions were very similar to 2009 with nearly identical weather (hottest days of the summer). Prior to this run I figured somewhere in the 12 hour range was possible and we were able to hit that target finishing the traverse in 12:17. We started at the Cascade Pass trailhead at 4:49 am and finished at Downey Creek Bridge at 5:06 pm. Complete photo album here.

Overall, the 2h19m improvement from the 2009 time was due to a consistently faster effort throughout the traverse (see comparison below). I attribute this to more route experience and dialing in on nutrition and hydration, which helped keep energy levels high especially in the second half of the traverse. Bachlor Creek was as lovely (brushy) as ever although we avoided making any time consuming errors in the brush and the Downey Creek Trail felt as long as I had remembered. The 8.5 mile jog along the Suiattle River Road seemed especially needless because there were five forest service vehicles parked at the Downey Creek Bridge. In fact, the closed portion of the road is in better shape than the open part! It seemed like they were prepping the road, perhaps for opening? An open road will inevitably result in an opportunity to better time, all else equal, because no matter what the thought of 8.5 mile further prevents forces you to keep a little bit reserved in the tank.

Comparison: 2012 / 2009 / 2008 (difference 2012 to 2009)
Cascade Pass TH (3,600 ft) : 0 / 0 / 0
Cascade Pass (5,392 ft) : 43 / 48 / 55 (- 5)
Cache Col (6,920 ft) : 1:39 / 1:50 / 2:13 (- 11)
Spider-Formidable Col (7,320 ft+) : 3:26 / 3:40 / 5:00 (- 14)
Yang Yang Lakes (5,830 ft) : 4:10 / 4:26 / 6:20 (- 16)
White Rock Lakes (6,194 ft) : 6:25 / 7:11 / 9:51 (- 46)
Spire Col (7,760 ft+) : 7:52 / 8:54 / 11:55 (- 1:02)
Cub Pass (6,000 ft+) : 8:55 / 10:16 / 13:42 (- 1:21)
Bottom of Bachelor Creek (2,440 ft) : 10:51 / 12:48 / 16:30 (- 1:57)
Downey Creek TH (1,415 ft) : 12:17 / 14:36 / 18:10 (- 2:19)

Location (Elevation): Time Elapsed / Split / Real Time
Cascade Pass TH (3,600 ft) : 0 / 0 / 04:49
Cascade Pass (5,392 ft) : 43:10 / 43:10 / 05:32
Cache Col (6,920 ft) : 1:38:34 / 55:24 / 06:27
Spider-Formidable Col (7,320 ft+) : 3:25:37 / 1:47:02 / 08:14
Yang Yang Lakes (5,830 ft) : 4:10:17 / 44:40 / 08:59
White Rock Lakes (6,194 ft) : 6:24:54 / 2:14:36 / 11:14
Spire Col (7,760 ft+) : 7:52:01 / 1:27:07 / 12:41
Cub Pass (6,000 ft+) : 8:54:49 / 1:02:47 / 13:44
Bottom of Bachelor Creek (2,440 ft) : 10:51:23 / 1:56:34 / 15:40
Downey Creek TH (1,415 ft) : 12:17:15 / 1:25:51 / 17:06

Complete photo album here.

Skyline 50k

Last Sunday I had a great experience running the Skyline 50k in the East Bay hills. This race is a classic Bay Area event with 32 years of history. While the course has 4,750 ft of cumulative elevation gain, the route includes 17 miles of fire road and 3 miles of paved road allowing for a relatively fast pace. The remaining 11 miles of the course are on single track including the legendary French Trail in Redwood Regional Park traversing a thickly forested hillside with stately redwoods. The days leading up to the event were very hot in the bay area hills so I was not expecting cooperative weather. However, Sunday morning dawned foggy at Lake Chabot as a little extra push of marine air served to keep temperatures in check throughout the morning. In addition, the early start of the race at 7 am helps to mitigate heat issues.Photo by Adam RayI moved along nicely through the early stages of the race finding a rhythm on the fire roads reaching Big Bear Aid Station in about 58 minutes and Skyline Gate in 1:35. The French Trail was inspirational as usual, despite the inevitable fall-off in pace due to its twisty and technical nature. I was able to move at a consistent pace up the MacDonald climb, a short but steep climb that is never easy but I knew it was the last major climb of the course.  I got into a nice rhythm heading down to Bort Meadows that continued along the Brandon Trail and Cascade Trail. The final stretch of single track around the north side of Chabot on the Columbine Trail included some small hills that slowed the pace down and I was happy to finally reach the Honker Bay aid station. I passed through that aid station in 3:12 and I knew it was going to be close for breaking the legendary Tom Johnson’s course record from 1997, which I recalled was somewhere in the 3:32s. With 20 minutes to run the last 3 miles, I moved at a decent clip through the bridge crossing at the far end of the lake. The pavement for the last 1.5 miles is deceivingly difficult on tired legs with its rolling hills, but with about a quarter mile to go I realized that if I picked up the pace I would have a good chance of breaking the course record. After a hard charge, I arrived at the finish in 3:32:05, lowering the previous course record (3:32:37) by 32 seconds.The organization for this event was phenomenal and a big thanks goes to race director Adam Ray and all the volunteers for making this a great day on the trails for all the participants. The course was well-marked, aid stations were superb, and the post-race bbq was delightful. It was great to mingle with runners as they came in and spend the afternoon picnicking at Lake Chabot. Thanks to all involved with this awesome event!

Lost Coast – Sinkyone

Part II of the Lost Coast adventure run is from Chamise Mountain to Usal Beach. The first portion is a descent along the long ridge of Chamise Mountain down to Needle Rock and the park visitor center. At the beginning we were above the marine inversion and treated to fantastic views but everything below 800 feet was enshrouded in thick fog which would hang tough along the coast all day long. The route through the Sinkyone is arduous and entails over 7,000 feet of cumulative elevation gain on an often overgrown footpath. Due to the remarkably persistent fog, the coastal vistas that I knew existed from the 2010 trip were not visible. However, we did encounter some great sunlight through the fog along the ridgelines as the route would poke above the marine layer near the crests. Total time for the second day was around 7:30. Here are some of my favorite photos from Day 2, with the complete album here.

Lost Coast – King Range

The Lost Coast is a spectacular meeting of land and ocean along the most undeveloped, remote and rugged stretch of coastline along the U.S. West Coast. I was eager to return here after an amazing experience in 2010 (see 2010 TRs: King Range, Sinkyone). This time, I joined Colin and Gary for the complete tour of the coast from the mouth of the Mattole River to Usal Beach. Complete album here.

The northern portion of the Lost Coast is protected by the King Range National Conservation Area and 42,585 acres received Federal Wilderness designation on October 17, 2006. The southern portion is protected in Sinkyone Wilderness State Park, named after the Sinkyone Indians that lived on this part of the coast. The two sections are split by Shelter Cove, a small community of mainly vacation homes, but the parts are completely different in terms of the overall feel and experience. The northern 26 mile section in the King Range NCA from the Mattole River to Black Sands Beach at Shelter Cove is primarily a beach walk with two-thirds of the distance spent on sand, gravel, and rock-hopping and the remaining third on trails just above the beach on the bluffs. The southern 27 mile section from Hidden Valley to Usal Beach in the Sinkyone is entirely on the bluffs above the ocean with arduous climbs and narrow, brushy trails in the forest – a true adventure run with over 7,000 feet of elevation gain. The northern part features sweeping oceanside views at every step while the southern part has inspiring vistas from atop rugged cliffs. The vegetation transitions from grassy hillsides at the far north end to lush Douglas fir forest further south. There is even a few nice groves of old growth redwoods in the Sinkyone portion. We did not come across many people on either of the days and in particular, the Sinkyone portion is infrequently traveled, as manifested by overgrown trails with often poor footing. The first day along the beach featured glorious blue skies while the second day in the Sinkyone featured a dense marine layer with 800 foot tops that kept the beaches foggy but the ridge crests sunny. The “twilight zone” resulted in some amazing sunbeam through the foggy forest. Here are some favorite photos from the King Range Beach walk, which took 6:45. Complete album here.

 

Many more photos in the complete album here.